One-Night Camping in Durness: Hiking & Paddleboarding on the NC500

Thinking about camping in Durness on the NC500? …..DO IT!

Durness, on Scotland’s far northwest coast and along the famous North Coast 500 (NC500) route, feels like the edge of the world. We spent a night camping here in early March, exploring Faraid Head, paddling in the Kyle of Durness, and soaking up the solitude of the region’s white sand beaches. If you’re looking for a remote, off-the-beaten-path adventure in Scotland, this is it.

Hiking Faraid Head: A James Bond-Worthy Landscape

We kicked off our trip with a hike through the sand dunes of Faraid Head, a headland jutting into the North Atlantic. The narrow, winding road through the dunes looks like something straight out of a James Bond film. This dramatic spot was once a site for MOD operations, adding to the sense of mystery. It’s probably one of the most remote-feeling places we’ve ever been in Scotland—and that’s saying something.

Smoo Cave & Coffee on Sango Sands

After our hike, we stopped at Smoo Cave, a massive sea cave with an impressive waterfall inside. It’s free to visit, though guided tours take you deeper into the cave when available. From there, we grabbed our fire maple and cafetiere and took a quiet moment on Sango Sands Beach to brew up a couple of coffees. Sango is a completely secluded stretch of white sand with stunning views over the Atlantic.

Paddleboarding in the Kyle of Durness—With a Seal for Company

The afternoon brought high tide, so we took our paddleboards to the Kyle of Durness. The water was calm, and the scenery was breathtaking. The best part? A curious seal swam alongside us the entire way, making the experience even more special.

Dinner at Smoo Cave Hotel, A Beach Fire & A Wild Camping Spot

We had dinner at Smoo Cave Hotel, a no-frills spot serving classic pub grub. The fish and chips were crispy, fresh, and exactly what we needed after a full day outdoors.

Afterward, we returned to Sango Sands for a small beach fire, enjoying the quiet and the sound of the waves under a clear night sky.

We camped in a spacious layby a minute down the road toward Tongue, overlooking the bay. With no one else around, the only sounds were the waves and the occasional seabird. Early March meant empty beaches and, with no wind and clear skies, near-perfect conditions for a night outdoors.

Breakfast in Tongue: A Surprising Hidden Gem

Before heading home, we drove to Tongue, a charming village on the NC500, and discovered a surprisingly trendy little bakery called Cereal Bakery. It felt like stepping into a hip city café, complete with jazz music, quirky books, and some of the best homemade sourdough cheese toasties we’ve ever had. If you’re passing through, it’s well worth a stop.

Final Thoughts: A Perfect One-Night Escape in Durness on the NC500

Camping in Durness delivers pure, remote beauty. If you’re planning a North Coast 500 road trip, don’t skip this corner of the country—it might just be the most breathtakingly remote place you ever visit.

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